Chateau Lafon-Rochet 1996 (1x75cl)

Saint-Estephe is the firmest of the left bank communes - more clay in the soil, more grip in the glass, wines that usually need years before they relax. A 1996 has had nearly thirty of them.

Bottles at this age vary, so there's no telling how one has held until it's open. Stand it upright a day or two ahead, pull the cork gently, and decant off the sediment. Nice one for a slow dinner with braised or roasted meat rather than a big crowded table.

Tasting notes

Saint-Estephe reds are typically Cabernet led with firm tannins and dark, earthy fruit when young. With nearly three decades in bottle you'd usually expect dried blackcurrant, tobacco, leather and damp earth, and tannins that have turned much softer.