Spain White

Spain's whites, which have changed more in twenty years than its reds.

Where to look. Albariño from Rías Baixas on the Atlantic coast is the best known — saline, high in acid, made for shellfish. Rueda grows Verdejo, a little fuller and more herbal. Godello from Valdeorras is the one to try if you like white Burgundy. White Rioja is the outlier: often barrel-aged for years and closer to a savoury oxidative style than to anything else here.

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